Making a shipping case for small framed paintings
A great way to pack and ship small framed works at a reasonable cost.
A shipping case that easily takes a 16" x 20" framed work and is robust and durable so that it can be used again and again.
Here's how it's made.
You may be able to get the materials cut to order.
If you do it yourself you will require a few simple tools.
TOOLS:
1.) A utility knife or an electric jigsaw with fine blade
2.) A metal straight edge; a carpenters framing square is perfect.
3.) A small electric or hand drill with a 1/8th" twist bit.
4.) A hammer
5.) A mitre box with Tenon or Back saw.
6.) A Stanley corner clamp.
7.) A screwdriver, preferably electric.
8.) G Clamps.
MATERIALS: For works up to 16" x 20"
- 1 Mahogany door skin, comes in 7' x 3' sheets from your local lumber yard.
- 7' of 1"x 2" fir
- 12.. 3/4" finishing nails
- 12.. 1/2 pan head screws (heavyweight doorskins may require 3/4" screws)
- Some duct tape or hockey tape
- White glue and 1 sheet #120 garnet sandpaper.
PROCESS:
Cut two pieces of doorskin about 3" bigger than the framed work.
In this case we have a 16" x 20" frame so each piece will be
19" x 23"
One is for the top, one for the bottom.
You can use a jigsaw with a fine tooth blade if you have one.
Using the straight edge and knife is a health hazard.
Please read the warning
here before you attempt it
NEXT:
Tape the edges neatly with duct or masking tape
to prevent injury to handlers.
Make 3 marks with pencil along all sides on one piece.
This will be the
bottom of the case...
Cut the 1"x
2" to the same dimensions, two pieces @ 19" and two pieces @
23"
Mitre on both ends 45 degrees and lay them out on edge like so:
Now you need to take the doorskin and glue and nail it to the frame
with the 12 3/4" finishing nails...I find that if you tap a couple
of the nails through the skin just until the points are showing enough,
so that you can then carefully position the skin on one of the frame pieces
and firmly press the points into the frame...Now pull them apart again
then add the glue...when you go to reposition the two pieces the nail points
find the holes and don't slide around on the glue...Tap the nails home.
Take the second piece of the frame, same thing, but this time add some
glue to the mitred faces of the 1"x 2" and if you have a Stanley
corner clamp use it to hold the mitred faces together as they dry. Continue
with the other two pieces of the frame.
The other piece of skin
is to become the removable top, mark it the same way but this time drill
1/8th holes for the 12 pan head screws. Mark it accurately in a symmetrical
pattern so that the lid can flip and the screw holes are aligned no matter
which side is being used.
Carefully position it on the completed frame and screw each screw down
tight, (the electric screwdriver really helps here!) If the wood is too
hard drill pilot holes
I painted the top white on both sides, one side is for the addressee,
the other has my return address on it.
The gallery has only to flip the top and it's ready to send back to me.
The first time I used it, the exhibition returned the case but it still
showed their address with a bit of paper taped over it ????
My solution was to write brief instructions on the inside bottom of the
case so that when the exhibition staff open it to return the work they
are instructed to "flip the lid".
Has worked without a hitch since.
When you pack the painting use styrofoam or bubble wrap to prevent any
movement of the painting.
A 16"x 20" packed like this can ship via your Postal Service
with recorded, insured delivery for a very reasonable price.